The art of
Mogul-inspired techniques of setting of stone,rates amongst the more classical art and
craft of India. A unique combination of the indigenous, the Muslim jewellery design
tradition thrives in centres like Delhi, Jaipur and Varanasi.
In this style, gems are bedded in a surround of
gold leaf rather than secured by a rim or a claw.
Such sparkling
gleaming work, often seen as a costly necklace and matching earrings for a lucky bride,
may be combined with meenakari enameling.
This is a champlev technique, i.e. a recess is
hollowed out in the surface of gold or silver to take a mineral, such as cobalt oxide for
blue, which is then fired into the depression so as to leave a thin gold line separating
the segments of colour. The intricate designs almost rivals the jewels that they surround.
The word Kundan stands for those very fine gold
foils that are used for sealing in the precious stones which are embedded in the
embellishments.
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